Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Day 9 to 21 in Schuylerville, NY (origina name was Saratoga)


      Ann was staying on the boat for the first 3 full days, and then I drove her to Fairhaven, NY to pick up her vehicle to drive back to Ohio. That drive was over 150 road miles each way, but it also served to remind us how far we had actually travelled on Lucky Us. The weather was scattered rain for most of Ann’s final few days, but she made the most of her time by walking all over Schuylerville soaking up the history. Speaking of history, the photos in this post are in no particular order, except all of the photos of historical places are at the end. On the Erie Canal we had passed one of the two “beer barges”, which was a big local event.
      Since, the 1970s, there has been almost no commercial traffic on the Erie Canal so the barges carrying the large tanks to the Genesee Brewery in Rochester were unusual. The Champlain Canal has some commercial traffic even today, and I was greeted with the view of this tug and a large, empty barge (photo above at right). Several local people standing near where I was hardly seemed to notice the passing of the tow. Later, I passed several barges waiting to be loaded at a gravel quarry. Quite a different feeling after seeing helicopter views on TV and hearing reports on TV and radio daily for at least 10 days.
      The photo at the left shows Lucky with a bored look that tells her opinion of the weather. Usually when I offer her a chance to go for a walk, she jumps up and heads for the salon door, but when she sees rain, she can put on the breaks very fast. I try to walk 3 to 5 miles with her every day, but when it is raining, that total goes way down with her approval.
      Downtown Schuylerville is active with a grocery, 7 restaurants, several churches but no real stores. Most of the remaining store fronts are for services like lawyers, music, laundromat, and teaching yoga, art and drums, etc. The only store is a thrift store that occupies two store fronts. The buildings are old and in reasonable condition (photo at right). So, it is a pretty little downtown, but it is a little different.
      One cute thing on main street was this horse painted to look like a cow (photo at left). Several
of the towns in previous stops also had (only) one painted animal in a prominent location (e.g. the painted mule in Waterford).
      Or is it a horse?  The next photo (at right) shows that the horse actually has two pairs of ears… That’s right there are both horse and cow ears on a horse tat is painted with spots like a cow... Somebody has a strange sense of humor.
        Judy at the marina has a green thumb, and she has planted a lot of flowers, including this brightly colored hanging basket (photo at left). There are a lot of long term summer residents in the mobile home park that is also part of the marina. Most of them are from this area, but they have retired to Florida and come back here every summer. Anyway, they all contribute to a very friendly atmosphere here.
      Schuylerville also has a long, well preserved segment of the original Champlain Canal (photo at right). There is a stream that flows into the old canal from the upper right, and the added water circulation keeps the canal in good shape. More and more small towns are restoring small segments of both the original Erie and Champlain Canals as a means of attracting tourists.
      The photo at the left shows another portion of the original canal with a gravel one lane road along the old towpath. Lucky and I walked about a half mile along here on one of our daily walks. It was fun walking along here and thinking back to the time when a team of mules was pulling a barge along this very spot…
      …and they’re headed down the straight approaching the finish line. Saratoga Springs, NY is a beautiful town about 8 miles west of Schuylerville. It and Lake George were a favorite summer home to many wealthy people from New York City since the very late 1800s. Horse racing has also been a large part of the local activities. We went to see some racing, but it was dirt track car racing at the Albany-Saratoga Speedway (photo at right). It is a 1/3 mile dirt track with about ten 8 lap qualifying races with 2 races for each class. The final races are usually 20 laps. Given the high speeds and short track, the races do not last very long, but they are very organized with never more than about 5 minutes between races.

      We had a great time at the races as can be seen in the smiling faces in the photo at the left. If you look closely, you can see that the Admiral is wearing a set of noise deadening head phones, which definitely helped her enjoy the races. I had not been to a short, dirt track race since I was in high school so I was definitely looking forward to this event. On the other hand, the Admiral had never been to one of these races, and as she said later, she was not at all sure that she would like it. Don’t hold your breath, but I do think that we will go again someday.
      In driving around the area we passed several osprey nest on top of electric power lines (photo at right). Someone went to some effort as the wire had been removed from the top of the pole and a wooden box had been added. The osprey population has really rebounded from near extinction in the 1960s due to the effects of the pesticide DDT that caused their eggs to have very thin shells that cracked very easily.
      This is the Gen. Philip Schuyler House on the west edge of Schuylerville. The town was ultimately renamed after Gen. Schuyler replacing the informal name of the area of Saratoga. This beautiful colonial style house is actually the third built on this site by members of the Schuyler family as the first two were destroyed by fire. As part of a recurring theme, this photo was also taken in the rain...



      There were several beautiful, old churches, including this one that looked abandoned and was for sale (photo at right). Some people buy old churches and convert them into a home, but this one was so large that it would cost a fortune to heat.  Anyway, it looked very sad sitting there…
      Just up the hill from the church in the previous photo at the right sits the Saratoga National Monument (photo at left). It was built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Revolutionary forces at the Battle of Saratoga that happened over several weeks in September and October of 1777. It sits at the edge of what looked like an old stream terrace, and it has a commanding view of the Hudson River over 150 feet below. Just to the west of the monument is Victory Woods where British General Burgoyne and his army retreated after losing the battle. They had previously laid down their arms in what is now a waterfront park in Schuylerville.
      The handsome gent in the photo is me for scale and shows some of the details in the monument (photo at right). The victory at Saratoga marked the first major victory for the Revolutionary Army since the Declaration of Independence was signed about 15 months before. By that point the British controlled New York City, the Hudson River Valley and north through Lake Champlain all the way to Montreal. The nearly 13,000 American troops outnumbered the 8,000 British (and Hessian) troops who were more heavily armed and well trained, professional soldiers. By the time the battle actually began, the British army was down to as few as 7,000 troops due to casualties and desertions while the Revolutionary forces were growing daily.
      The final battle began here about 8 miles south of Schuylerville (photo at left). The Revolutionary forces had set up fortified lines for defense to stop the British from advancing South along the Hudson River (river is near the top of the photo). Hessian forces were moving South along the river, and the line of cannons placed along the edge of this terrace some 70+ feet above the river. The Hessians were turned back in the face of cannon and musket fire raining down on them and rejoined General Burgoyne who decided to attack through the trees further up the hill.
       When the British moved up the hill to attack through the trees, they lost the advantage of their superior cannons that were useless in the trees. The British came out of the tree line and started to cross this field where they were met by intense fire from the defenders protected behind earthen works. This part of the battle was to prove the turning point, and Burgoyne’s army retreated to Saratoga where they ultimately laid down their arms. There were negotiations about the document that was signed. Burgoyne refused to use the word “surrender”, but that is what they did when they laid down their arms in what is now a Schuylerville park adjacent to the marina where Lucky Us was docked.
        I am standing next to one of the (few) cannons that the Revolutionary force possessed (photo at left). It could only fire a (very small) one pound ball, but at the range of a thousand yards it was accurate. I am also holding an umbrella because it poured during the entire tour of the battlefield.
      The photo at the right shows one of the high-tech cannons captured from the British. It could shoot a larger ball much further and with greater accuracy than any cannon in the US arsenal. There was no foundry in the US that could produce such a weapon. Thus, the 138 cannons captured from the British were a huge addition to the Revolutionary army. The cannons were used against the British for the rest of the war and proved particularly effective against the British in Boston.
       Patriot John Neilson’s farm house was used for planning and his fields were used for camping. During the early part of the campaign one of the smaller engagements was fought along the edge of his farm, but Neilson’s family had already moved to safety. This is an exact reproduction of the original farmhouse (photo at left).
      On May 30 we also visited the National Cemetery (photo at right) that is adjacent to the Saratoga Battleground National Park. Before it became a floating holiday, Memorial Day was fixed on May 30 so it seemed appropriate that we stop to visit and pay our respects. As far as national cemeteries go, it is a relatively new one, but of course, it is filling far too fast.
       The last photo (at left) from my extended stay in Schuylerville is the ship’s bell from the USS Saratoga, which is now on display at the Saratoga National Cemetery. I did not look it up, but I believe that the USS Saratoga was an aircraft carrier that played a prominent role in the battle of Midway Island in WW II. If I am not correct, I am sure that I will hear from my 7 year old Grandson Will who would know the answer.

 
 
 
 

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